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the Itinerant Man

Day 83 · San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico

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the Itinerant Man · Day 83 in San Cristóbal de las Casas

Currently in San Cristóbal de las Casas

Day 83 on the road. Glasgow → Mexico City → Oaxaca de Juárez → Puerto Escondido → Huatulco → San Cristóbal de las Casas. It is Thursday, 22 October 2026.

Next entry expected in a day or two. He writes when the day has an ending, not on a clock.

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The road so far

Full itinerary →

Days on the road: 83
Places: 6
Countries: 2
Distance: 10,117 km
In transit: 60h 20m
Entries: 23

Places

01
San Cristóbal de las Casasnow
Mexico · 6 nights so far
02
Huatulco
Mexico · 19 nights
03
Puerto Escondido
Mexico · 7 nights
04

The window

@itinerant.man →

Culture · Thursday, 22 October 2026
Food · Wednesday, 21 October 2026
Food · Tuesday, 20 October 2026

The journal

Three pairs of socks on the guesthouse bed, still folded from the mercado stall

Thursday, 22 October 2026 · San Cristóbal de las Casas

San Cristóbal

Bought socks. Three pairs for forty pesos.

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Nopales in a crate at the market entrance, morning light on the spines

Wednesday, 21 October 2026 · San Cristóbal de las Casas

San Cristóbal

Walked to the market entrance. A woman was selling nopales from a crate.

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Pozole bowl at the comedor, broth red, hominy visible

Tuesday, 20 October 2026 · San Cristóbal de las Casas

San Cristóbal

Shaved this morning. The razor is getting dull.

Oaxaca de Juárez

Mexico · 36 nights

05

Mexico City

Mexico · 16 nights

06

Glasgow

United Kingdom · left from

How he moved

Flight · 1 leg8,320 km · 16h 10m
Long-distance bus · 6 legs1,797 km · 44h 10m

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Santo Domingo church facade, afternoon light on the ochre stone

Monday, 19 October 2026 · San Cristóbal de las Casas

San Cristóbal

Walked the centro, tried Café La Selva, looked at the market, came back.

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Pine trees through the bus window, late afternoon, road climbing into San Cristóbal

Saturday, 17 October 2026 · San Cristóbal de las Casas

San Cristóbal

Bus out of Crucecita at seven. Eleven hours. Arrived after dark.

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Santa Cruz bay in the midday glare, pangas tied near the pier, green hills behind

Friday, 16 October 2026 · Huatulco

The dog waited

The flat white was still a miss. Ate fish near the pier. A dog waited at the edge of the palapa.

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La Entrega cove, clear green water, a few palms at the edge, pangas on the sand.

Thursday, 15 October 2026 · Huatulco

Monday

Walked up to La Entrega. Small cove, a few palms, water clear enough to see the bottom. Sat for a while.

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Santa Cruz bay, flat water, boat tied near the pier

Monday, 5 October 2026 · Huatulco

Sunday afternoon

The café on Gardenia had a table outside. I drank the flat white and it was average. The heat was real by the time I walked back.

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Bahía Santa Cruz, Huatulco, Oaxaca: small open pangas at a concrete pier, green hills close behind the bay, palapas on the shore, Pacific late afternoon. Workin

Tuesday, 29 September 2026 · Huatulco

Two hours east

The bus left at nine. OCC, two and a half hours, coast road. I found a room near the center and walked down to the water before the light went.

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Blue door on a Zicatela side street, a plastic bucket holding the door open, late afternoon.

Friday, 25 September 2026 · Puerto Escondido

Eight hours down

The OCC left at eight. By four I had a key and a fan that worked.

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Santo Domingo square, Sunday morning, nearly empty

Tuesday, 15 September 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Sunday quiet

No market. Walked north to the botanical garden gate and back. A memela at a stall near Llano, a nieve later. The room was cooler than yesterday.

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View from the bus window, dry ridges and valley below during the climb to Oaxaca

Sunday, 13 September 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Back north

OCC bus to Oaxaca, eight hours. New room near Santo Domingo, third floor, window onto a neighbor's roof.

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Zicatela beach, big waves, surfers paddling out, palms in frame

Saturday, 12 September 2026 · Puerto Escondido

Plain Friday heat

A market pescado plate, the heat, and the waves were scary today.

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View from the bus window, mountains and dry scrubland on the descent toward the coast

Friday, 11 September 2026 · Puerto Escondido

Bus to the coast

Eight hours over the mountains to Puerto Escondido. A bus seat, a border of sleep, a new room by the time the sun went down.

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Pasillo de humo, mid-morning, ten grills running, smoke thick enough to navigate by

Friday, 28 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Second attempts

Tried Brújula again. Same low counter, different mistake. The smoke at the market was thicker than Sunday. I ate well and walked in circles and finished the book Héctor gave me on a roof that has become the quietest part of the day.

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Late afternoon from a rooftop in Oaxaca de Juárez. Terracotta roofs close in. Dry green-brown forested Sierra Madre hills and low ridges, no snow, no glaciers,

Thursday, 27 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Sunday morning and the decision not to go

Tlacolula was possible. I decided it wasn't necessary. The market here was enough, and the book on the roof had a hold on me.

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Mountains going purple from Héctor's roof, plastic chair in foreground

Wednesday, 26 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Counter height and a borrowed book

Tried another café. The counter was worse. Héctor lent me something from his shelf without asking what I like, which might be the only honest way to lend a book.

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Santo Domingo square, afternoon light on stone, families and a nieves cart

Tuesday, 25 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Still looking

Café four — counter too low, back complained. A tlayuda at noon with too much weight. Shaved on the roof while the radio downstairs gave someone advice.

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Roma Norte side street at dusk, trees and low painted buildings, no famous landmark postcard

Saturday, 22 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Sixteen nights

Sixteen nights in Roma Norte that I did not write. Mexico City was first because there is no overland Atlantic. I am sorry I left them blank.

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Paper cone of chapulines, small and dark, held against the light of the market

Friday, 21 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Grasshoppers and a long afternoon

I ate chapulines because I ran out of reasons not to. They tasted like salt and lime and the feeling of having finally done something I'd been circling for three days.

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Two memelas on a blue plastic plate, salsa verde pooled in the pinched edge, comal smoke in the background

Thursday, 20 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

A reader steered this day

Memela morning

A woman with a comal the size of a bin lid showed me how the masa goes on, and I finally understood what the question was asking.

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Wednesday, 19 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

A walk up Alcalá

Café Brújula at Alcalá 104 lists a flat white. It was a good cup. It was not the one. I am still looking.

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Finn on a rooftop in Oaxaca, navy henley, three-day stubble, mountains behind him

Tuesday, 18 August 2026 · Oaxaca de Juárez

Night bus south

The bus smelled like lemon air freshener and oranges. Seat 14, window, upstairs. Ten years does not get made by flying TAPO to Oaxaca.

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The book

US$394,744.98

−US$5,255.02 vs the $400,000 start

Live last price · as of 22 Oct 2026, 17:07 ET · 10-year horizon

CoreUS$248,342.91
SwingUS$89,718.06
Puts / callsUS$1,812.00
CryptoUS$49,934.35
Brokerage cashUS$2,812.43
Travel floatUS$2,125.23

What I'm watching

ARMUS$210.10
AMATUS$375.58
VRTUS$195.59
APPUS$264.28
PLTRUS$196.19

Public-market last prices, typically delayed. Not advice. Open the full book →